A Choice Made –

 
Gianni Brunelli was a winemaker of considerable repute in Montalcino, but he was also Laura’s very much loved husband. And when he passed away in 2008, it might have seemed obvious that Laura Vacca Brunelli would take over sole responsibility for the estate and continue to make wonderful Brunello in the same splendid style of her love of so many years. Winemaking however, even in today’s world, is still largely a man’s vocation.

Certainly, there have been and are exceptions to the men’s club – wonderful Sylvie Cazes of Bordeaux and Chiara Boschis in charge of E. Pira & Figli, the energetic Canadian ex-pat Nathalie Bonhomme, now working in Spain, and closer to my home, winemakers such as Heidi Noble (JoieFarm) and Karen Gillis (Red Rooster) in the Okanagan valley of British Columbia. But these and notable others throughout the world are still dwarfed in number by their male counterparts. And as this is even more the case in Italy, Laura faced a daunting decision. It would have been easy to sell the estate, but speaking with her, you can tell it was never an option. That’s because love played too big a part in the choice that was required.

Love for her husband, love for her land, and the love of making something from that land that reflected what these gifts meant to her. Laura consequently committed herself to carrying on the traditions of Gianni Brunelli wines. We should all say a silent “mille grazie” that she did.

She has always been intimately familiar with the vineyards of the estate. Growing as perfect a grape as nature will allow is a source of fierce pride for Laura. Winemaking though, was another challenge, and at first she called on the support of renowned oenologist Paolo Vagaggini. Those days are gone, however, and Laura is now the chief grower, wine maker, and operational head of Gianni Brunelli wines. And although the wines continue to bear the name of her husband, she has made them her own while preserving his legacy.

The Vines

The estate’s grapes are sourced from two vineyards near Montalcino, Le Chiusi di Sotto and Podernovone. The former is a mere two hectares, planted entirely to Sangiovese, but most importantly, it contains a small section of vines dating back to 1947. Even the remaining vines from this cooler north side site go back to 1987 producing grapes that lead to structured and complex wine of fine intensity. Podernovone is situated further south in an entirely different micro climate and is planted with both Sangiovese and Merlot. This is a windy location and Laura feels that factor, along with its southwest exposure at 320 m above sea level, assists the grapes in avoiding disease. Perhaps more importantly, Podernovone is a warmer location which provides the estate with the ability to blend both cool and warm site wines into its final offerings. Indeed, Laura prefers to vinify the grapes from each site separately. It is only after both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation that she decides on the final blends following which the wines go to cask and are aged. This, and a meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards, produces wines of elegance with lovely texture and balance.

The Wines

Despite the relatively small size of approximately 6 hectares for the two vineyards, Gianni Brunelli estate produces a wonderful variety of wines. At present, there is a Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, and in compelling vintages, a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG (all 100% Sangiovese). In addition, there is the Amor Constante which is an IGT blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. Lastly, the estate produces a Grappa di Brunello and excellent Extra virgin olive oil, the latter receiving just as much care as any of the wines.

At a tasting in Vancouver hosted by Marquis Wines, Laura poured both her 2007 Rosso and 2007 Brunello. It is common for many to play down a Rosso as Brunello’s “baby brother“ or “distant cousin“, but that can be unfair. Rosso, while being accessible earlier, claims its own turf as a charming wine lending itself to a multitude of food pairings. Laura’s Rosso was simply delicious. Light on its feet and displaying a wonderful balance. While obviously not as nuanced or layered as the Brunello, its ample fruit and fine acidity kept drawing me back for another taste. This was a wine which represented great value given the rather dear region from which it originates. A well crafted wine for a simple meal with friends and a wonderful way to introduce yourself to Sangiovese outside of the more plentiful Chianti offerings.

If the Rosso was wonderfully understated, the Brunello itself was a standout for walking the high wire between rusticity and grace. The wine was both intense and elegant. This is no fruit and oak bomb, but rather a finely wrought expression of what the Sangiovese grape can produce in the hands of a skilled winemaker. A pure expression of Brunello and at what I would suggest is a reasonable price when compared to some of the famous producers in this region.

Both wines acquitted themselves with more than enough concentration. One of the explanations in that regard came from Laura. Rather than harvesting an entire vineyard or given rows all at once, Laura insists that her grapes be handpicked from different pockets as they reach the degree of ripeness which she desires. This results in the vineyards being harvested in a multi-pass effort, the pickers going here and there over several days or more to ensure the necessary quality. Laura described it as the “marchesi di leopardo” method and due to my abysmal Italian, several minutes were required before I realized she meant “leopard spots” in reference to the seemingly haphazard manner in which the harvest occurs. The method ensures, however, that each grape reaches just the right stage of ripeness and results in a wonderful depth of concentration in the glass. This is a labour of love with the focus here being in the labour – harvesting in this manner is certainly more expensive than the norm.

Regrettably, there was no opportunity to taste the Amor Constante. The name was chosen by Gianni to commemorate his friends, but there is no doubt it could equally have come from Laura. She loves each vine on her estate and works ceaselessly to produce what she describes as an artisanal product. Go ahead – taste what love makes.

Tasting Notes

2007 Gianni Brunelli Rosso di Montalcino – If Burgundy produced Sangiovese instead of Pinot Noir, this would be what it would taste like. Slightly pale in colour, fruity, well crafted from a super year. – BCLCB $35 -Very Good

2007 Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino – Again, that lovely vintage giving up a wine that is full and deep. Close to perfect Sangiovese expression with the sweet cherry entry followed by a complex series of scents and tastes. Great body, complexity and smooth tannins all in balance with pronounced concentration. This is coming into its own. $70 BCLCB – Excellent

2010 Gianni Brunelli Rosso di Montalcino – Light on its feet. Almost reluctant to give up its fruit, but still all you could want at this price point. Refreshing and lively. Keeps you going back for another sip. $35 BCLCB – Very Good

2011 Gianni Brunelli Rosso di Montalcino – I regretted opening this, my one bottle, at home – not that the wine won’t be good, it just seemed a little closed and made me think I should have waited. That shouldn’t necessarily have been a concern for a Rosso, but there it is. Still, there were plenty of hints that this will be a super wine for the price. Complexity and structure are both in place and bode well for the near future. I‘m looking forward to trying it again. $35 BCLCB Very Good